Home cooks and hallowed chefs share their secrets for cast-iron cooking.

BACK TO THE LAND

BACK TO THE LAND

Like many chefs across the country following the COVID-19 pandemic, Spike Gjerde is in the midst of a reinvention. There was a moment when he thought he might throw in the toque for good, as his A Rake’s Progress became a casualty at The Line Hotel in Washington, D.C., and his flagship Woodberry Kitchen pivoted with the times. But now all of that has changed, as he readies to open “a magical little jewel box” with Woodberry Tavern.

October 27, 2022
FORGING A FOODWAY

FORGING A FOODWAY

D.C. chef Jeremiah Langhorne is on a quest to define Mid-Atlantic cuisine.

By all odds, you could say that Jeremiah Langhorne was destined for this moment. Having just reopened his Michelin-starred The Dabney in Washington, D.C., the McCrady’s, Noma, and French Laundry alum is poised to be one of the next great culinary rock stars, one who is carving out newfound recognition for a regional foodway almost lost to history and deeply rooted in its diverse terroir. “When asked what [the restaurant] would be like,” he says, “my best response has always been, ‘I’ll show you.’”

September 30, 2022
OFF THE LAND

OFF THE LAND

The first time we met Evan Tate, he wasn’t standing over cast iron but a massive stainless steel stock pot, filled with 60 pounds of pork, at least one bag of oranges, and a cornucopia of seasonings and spices. It was a hot summer day in Lockhart Texas, and before a live-fire grill with a wide straw cowboy hat, a thick dark mustache, and a bottle of Asian hot sauce labeled with a piece of painter’s tape that read “not just sriracha,” we knew this third-generation cattle rancher was our kind of people.

August 05, 2022
TRIAL BY FIRE

TRIAL BY FIRE

At 28 years old, Ivan Guillen is an old soul—a toro antiguo, as he puts it—and it comes across in the art that is his cooking. It was a romance born in his native Mexico, that then lured him to Los Angeles, and eventually into the vast western wilderness of Mosca, Colorado, where he is now the executive chef at the Zapata Ranch of the conservation-minded Ranchlands. When not hogtied by local drought, his food sings over an open flame. “I think of the old ways of doing it,” says Guillen. “I always say that it’s a primitive thing.”

July 01, 2022
AN HOMAGE TO SPRING

AN HOMAGE TO SPRING

North Carolina chef Katie Button shares the secret of pan-seared scallops.

May 25, 2022
PANS IN SERVICE

PANS IN SERVICE

D.C. chef Opie Crooks puts cast iron to work in a restaurant kitchen.

“We use cast iron everywhere,” says chef Opie Crooks of No Goodbyes in Washington, D.C.—from the open hearth to a French top range to gas burners to the oven to induction. “My advice to home cooks is don’t’ be so precious with it. Use it all the time. Use it for everything. It’s a tool, and it’s meant to be used that way.”

April 20, 2022
A LOVE LETTER TO APPALACHIA

A LOVE LETTER TO APPALACHIA

Virginia chef Travis Milton shares the wonders of Appalachian cooking.

March 17, 2022
SLOW COOK YOUR WAY THROUGH WINTER

SLOW COOK YOUR WAY THROUGH WINTER

When Elliott Moss left his hometown at the age of 20, he made one simple declaration: “I’m never eating rice again.” The Buxton Hall Barbecue chef had grown up on the eastern edges of South Carolina, much of which was once riddled with rice plantations, with the grain irrevocably rooted into the local cuisine today. And with it came many iterations of one-pot Southern staples.

January 21, 2022
FINALLY, A FOOLPROOF METHOD FOR CHRISTMAS GOOSE

FINALLY, A FOOLPROOF METHOD FOR CHRISTMAS GOOSE

Wade Truong didn’t grow up cooking wild game. From a young age, the Virginia native worked at his parents Saigon Café in Harrisonburg, then climbed the ranks to become executive chef at the popular Kybecca in Fredericksburg. But it wasn’t in these restaurants that he learned how to smoke turkey, sous vide duck, or roast venison—the kind of cuisine he’s become known for today.

December 20, 2021
A GUIDE TO EATING (AND COOKING) YOUR VEGGIES

A GUIDE TO EATING (AND COOKING) YOUR VEGGIES

For North Carolina chef-turned-farmer Jamie Swofford, there are more than four seasons in a year. Thirteen times more, to be exact, with the Piedmont native abiding by the ethos that every week—52 in total—brings a new peak for local produce, and with it, an opportunity to savor that fleeting moment’s sense of place. Particularly when roasted in a cast-iron pan.

November 23, 2021
BUY A STEAK, BUILD A FIRE, AND BEGIN

BUY A STEAK, BUILD A FIRE, AND BEGIN

There are certain things in life that just go together. Eggs and bacon. Blue jeans and t-shirts. Dogs and humans. And, of course, campfires and a cast-iron pan. To Denver chef (and bona fide meat master) Justin Brunson, this is a universal truth, learned over a lifetime of cooking meat over an open flame. ““There’s just something so primal and raw about it—almost romantic.”

October 27, 2021
HOW TO PERFECT A SOUTHERN STAPLE

HOW TO PERFECT A SOUTHERN STAPLE

“When you are born into Appalachia, some of your very first tastes are things like cornbread,” says Sean Brock, who grew up in rural Virginia. “Those flavors are our earliest and strongest memories, and they become part of our subconscious brain, where we also find nostalgia. That’s why we crave those things so much, because they make us feel safe and secure and nurtured.” 
January 31, 2021