VIETNAMESE-STYLE WHOLE FISH
Admittedly, this is a complex recipe. But Texas-by-way-of-New York chef John Tesar doesn’t take shortcuts. His restaurants pride themselves on prized pieces of protein, as showcased in this Vietnamese-inspired celebration of local seafood. Save it for next year’s Feast of the Seven Fishes—or consider it the courageous start of a new year. (You could also save the kitchen cleanup and head to Knife and Spoon in Orlando to try it from the chef himself.)
Serves 12.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 whole 2.5-pound fish, scaled, gutted, and deboned (such as red snapper)
- 1 Tbsp. canola oil
- 1 Tbsp. kaffir lime juice
Nuoc Cham:
- 6 chili pepper, sliced (such as bird’s eye, serrano, etc.)
- 6 knobs ginger, peeled and sliced
- 6 English cucumber, chopped
- 2 lbs. lemongrass, chopped and bruised
- 15 shallots, sliced
- 12 kafir lime leaves
- 3 knobs galanga, peeled and sliced
- 6 fresno chilis, sliced
- 2 heads garlic, cleaned and smashed
- 2 bottles fish sauce
- 2 quarts lime juice
- 1 quart water with 3 packs of palm sugar dissolved
Herb Oil:
- 2 cups soft herbs, chopped, including about 1.5 ounces stems (such as cilantro, parsley, etc.)
- 1/2 cup olive oil
Butter Emulsion:
- 1 quart Nuoc Cham
- 2-4 lbs. butter
- 1/4 Ultra-Tex 3 starch
- 1/2 Tbsp. Xanthan Gum
METHOD
Nuoc Cham:
Combine all vegetables into large container and macerate by hand until well combined. Add fish sauce, water, palm sugar, and lime juice. Mix well. Steep for 24 hours.
Herb Oil:
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Once the water is boiling, add the herbs and cook for about 15 seconds, until bright green. Quickly transfer to ice bath and let sit for 5 minutes until completely cool. Transfer herbs to a towel and dry. Transfer to a high-speed blender and add the oil. Puree untilsmooth. If the mixture feels too thick, add a bit more oil. Line a sieve with three layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter over a small bowl. Pour the oil into the sieve and let sit for a few hours, stirring occasionally. Do not press the oil through. Once done, transfer to a bottle and store in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Butter Emulsion:
Heat Nuoc Cham in a nonreactive sauce pan to a light simmer. Remove from heat, pour into large blender, and blend on high for 2-3 minutes. Add xantham gum and Ultra-Tex 3. Blend until emulsified into butter. Set aside.
To Finish:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place a 12-inch cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Add the canola oil and cook until it comes to a slight smoke. Add the whole fish, and sear on one side for 1 minute. Carefully flip the fish and add 2 Tbsp. emulsified butter. Once melted, carefully tilt the pan and baste the fish with the melted butter for 15 to 30 seconds. Place the pan into the oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the fish from the oven. Arrange on platter, generously garnish with more nuoc cham sauce, plus 2 Tbsp. herb oil and lime juice, then serve.
Recipe and photograph courtesy of chef John Tesar.
SEAFOOD FRITTERS
The Eastern Shore of Virginia is, for all intents and purposes, clam country. In fact, the Old Dominion State has the largest clam fishery in the United States, hauling in hundreds of millions of both farm-raised and wild varieties, from little necks, cherrystones, and razors along the coastal peninsula’s Chesapeake Bay shorelines to quahogs off the banks of the Atlantic Ocean. And if you’re not eating them raw or roasted, there are few ways better to indulge than the local delicacy of a pan-fried fritter.
CHESAPEAKE OYSTER STUFFING
A round of oysters is always cause for celebration, and this time of year on the Chesapeake Bay, that shows up in the form of oyster stuffing. Whether stuffed into a bird or cooked in a cast-iron pan, it’s a time-honored tradition during the holiday season. Or, as Harris’s book reports The Baltimore Sun putting it in 1914, “Inside the oyster belt at Thanksgiving time, it is nothing short of heresy to fail to serve turkey with good old-fashioned oyster stuffing.” Throw it into a Joan and consider it tradition.
SEARED HANGER STEAK WITH CHARRED SCALLION SALSA
There was a time not that long ago when you’d walk into certain butcher shops, ask for a hanger steak, and get a quizzical look. Perhaps that’s because, for some time, the secondary cut was also known as a “Hanging Tender,” hailing from inside the ribcage (in fact, it’s part of the diaphragm), as well as “the Butcher’s Steak,” with those cunning meatmongers often keeping this deeply flavorful, textured specimen for themselves. “But the gig is up,” says Pryles, who shares her pan-cooked version with us, featuring wagyu, no less, and a bright salsa to boot.
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